New Windows Fitted in Cabin

After seven months since their removal, the new windows were installed today and look great. You can see the new deck paint job (white gloss with grey decktread), reattached toerails, stanchions and safety wires.



Next job is applying the name graphics I designed.

New Custom Windows Purchased

The fiasco over replacing the cabin windows has had a happy ending (hopefully). With the delay, I was given advice after the unmatched set of windows were removed. I was advised that: rather than have the current trend of acrylic siliconed and screwed to the face of the window surrounds, to get proper framed windows. The face fitting method is difficult to get right and waterproof, whereas the framed units tend to be easier to fit without leaking and add strength to the cabin.

I was advised to try Aquarian Marine Windows at Factory 5, 28-30 Lipton Drive, Thomastown VIC 3074, Ph.(03) 9469 5811 and talk to Paul. He advised that rather than have one window made that would only slightly match the old one to have both windows built new. New rubber seals in old alloy frames are not as good a seal as new rubber in new frames. When he quoted the price of just $250 with me picking up and delivering FOR TWO FRAMES and WINDOWS, I had no logical choice but to say yes! I'd been quoted that much per window for just the face mounted cut out acrylic by two boat builders! When I dropped off the new windows at the boat builder, he was surprised at how low cost they were.

Yesterday, I picked up the new beautiful black powder coated frames with new smoke acrylic 10mm bigger all round than the old ones so that by tracing new frames and recutting holes a perfect fit is possible. They look a 'million bucks' and fitting will be easier too. I can certainly recommend Aquarian Marine Windows as the place to get custom rolled windows - might even get a new hatch made one day! Paul actually said he likes the little jobs (where other manufacturers won't touch small custom jobs) so a perfect source for those of us refitting old craft. Take along the old unit and get all new ones made rather than put new acrylic in old frames would be my advice.

We are so looking forward to seeing them fitted and our boat become dry again, after so many months with flow through ventilation when the plastic comes unstuck. Possible fitting date is tomorrow - photos of finished job when that is done. It will really look like we are making progress when they are in.

Toerails and Stanchion Reinstallation

My problem of boat builders not doing promised work (and lately losing valuable parts they were supposed to have fitted!) led me to trying an add for people interested in paintting our deck in the Gumtree Classified Website. Among the numerous respondents was an Irish guy and his Pommy mate (a professional house painter from England) who were very easy to work with, trustworthy (they'd ring when they were late starting) and they did a great job preparing, undercoating and topcoats of single pack deck paint and decktread by brush. The fickle Melbourne weather smiled upon us and despite dubious weather reports, they only had to stop once due to a very local shower and the temperatures were just high enough.

One Pom replaced another (who left to travel round Oz) to install the toerails and stanchions and the job was done much faster than if a boat builder had been employed. Sure you need to find the right guys and work with them to advise what needs to be done exactly, but at least these guys listened, unlike many boat builders. Also these guys loved doing a job that was more of a challenge and interesting, rather than normal building labourer jobs.

Question to Doug Sharpin (original boat builder) - "We removed the toerails for a new topside paint job (not an easy task as some bolts were bent and wouldn’t come out yet others had already been ripped out and toerails very loose). I’m curious what the bolts are bedded into – is it glass poked down into the space between skins or just filler. Amazingly tough but strange to have bolts not screws into just GRP. Incredible that even with an impact driver, two bolts had to be cut off as could not be removed!"

Answer from Doug - "The bolts AND rails were holding and clamping the deck moulding to the hull flange and all assembled with resin and asbestos!! powder mix known generally in the trade of those days as "bog" - the bolt heads were also siliconed under the heads but in pulling the joint down the bog squeezed out and filled the recess in the rail as well as tight around the bolts hence the tight bolts to try and waterproof this join. Incidently the toerails came from a Company in Huntingdale called Briggs Marine, now Adcast."

Our toerails are now back on but not without complications. For future info of Holland 25 owners, I pass on this info -Toerails and stanchions bolted with 1/4" x 1" bolts into nuts at less than 1/2" below deck level, 3/4" below toerail surface. Where the nuts remain and are held solid, it is easy to bolt back into these.

HOWEVER, where the nuts have been pulled out you need to drill out bog and loose nut or it will lock any bolt or self tapper you try and use. Where nuts are still there and have worked loose you will not be able to remove the bolt as it will just turn so only options are to leave, cut off, drill out. I left two cut off bolts in situ as too much damage to remove. Moved one stanchion base as nuts were unable to be captured but caught on 1 1/2" self tappers.

We reattached toerails using 1" long self-tappers into holes filled with bog and redrilled, with Sikaflex on srews to seal and bond. Five stanchions and pullpit were bolted back using bolts that luckily caught the nuts below with one moved a bit and self tappers used. Everything straight and solid again with vertical stanchions (I had a couple of bent ones straightened while removed and all sanded to a consistent finish). Straight wires and toerails (even though black toerail anodising stained and faded) looks great and a big relief to have them finally back on.Removal of toerails is not to be enterred into lightly!!!

The yacht has now obviously reached the point where other Club members are asking regarding "launch date" but still work to be done that makes putting a date on it impossible.

Topsides New Paint Job

Well not a lot has happened on Mystique apart from temporary removal of the toerails and the new colour grey for the topsides being applied in two pack.

Quite a change from the old faded blue, don't you think? We think it looks great but the photo against the grey wall does not do it justice.

This was done while Moira and I went on a holiday so I only have photos of the finished job. The white band is about 60mm high at the sides. Once the black toerail is replaced and new name graphics (also intending to be black) it should look great on the water.

We have had problems with boat builders still - he finally fitted the windows after 5 months but fitted one in old frame and the other face attached! When I said WHY he claimed that was what I requested, yet we had this argument when the plastic cutter had supplied one of each. We were then advised to instead of having both glued face onto the cabin, to get two new frames made (which we had previously been told was not possible to get custom frames). So windows were both removed AGAIN and I went off to get two new alloy framed and powder coated windows made. Should get these next week...

Also having the deck brush painted in white with grey deck tread areas while all the bits are off, if this strange clear weather holds. Then we'll reinstall the toerails and other cabin top gear. The tasks will keep slowly being done, hopefully!

Holland 25 Forum Created for Everyone

I created a Holland 25 Forum website at http://holland25.proboards.com to hopefully provide a venue for the many Aussie Holland 25 owners to share photos, design and repair tips/hints, and possibly create an informal "Holland 25 Owner Group" in the future. It may even assist in revival of interest in the IOR Quarter Tonner Class yachts that were part of our sailing history.

I encourage any Holland 25 owners to view the Forum site and hopefully join the FREE membership site. We hope to read of your yachts online soon.

Yacht Design Drawings

I originally contacted the designer, Ron Holland - from New Zealand, now in Ireland, who after searching his files couldn't find any designs for the Holland or Eygthene.

I found hull design scans on the Eygthene Forum, which was the 24 foot for-runner of the Holland 25. I took those 8 x A4 scans and pasted them (as well as possible) together in Photoshop, then traced them in AutoCAD.

In AutoCAD, I was then able to stretch, extend, tweak and largely guestimate the hull lines that you can see to the right. If you click on that graphic, it will load an A4 PDF that is much clearer. This shows how beamy the Holland 25 is but with a very 'fish bowl' style beam cross section. Although this gives a wide deck, the beam at the waterline is no where near as wide.

I could not find any original sailplan drawings so I had to work from mainsail P and a rough measure of the three pieces of old broken mast. I then decided to lower both the mast and sail-plan to gain stability. Originally, the rig was a fractional with a tapering mast over 11.2 m from keel step. I decided to change that to a 10 m from keel step masthead and I had 2.5m² cut off the foot of the main sail to allow the mast to be built lower and closer to the previous top of the fractional fore-triangle (over 1 metre lower). Theory gives this less heeling due to lower centre of side force on the sails but how it affects the balance of the rig I won't know till extensive sailing. If my theory calculations are right, we should be able to regain ballance by mast rake of about 300 mm at the top, moving the centre of effort back about 100 mm - time will tell?

You can see the resultant mast and sail plan in the graphic to the right. Click graphic for an A4 PDF verison. Note: the boom has a higher leech as I took more off the leech than luff to keep the centre of force low but gain some headroom. OK,so I won't have the Quarter Tonner racer it once was, but I also don't intend racing with five crew on the rail either, let alone when out for a cruise with Moira. It should be a tamer, safer and less prone to knock down yacht, which is good and if we can sail it flatter, it may even be faster!

This could give a cheap method of detuning a 3/4 fractional rig by cutting the mast down to close to fore-triangle so perhaps a 9/10th rig, for cruising or safer sailing. Here's hoping we'll find it works. We have a number of other Holland 25 yachts nearby to hopefully compare against (mainly masthead from original). Theory and practice hopefully will be close.

Single Yacht Lifting Point

30 September 2008

The old lifting point, using two stainless steel wing bolts, was not secure enough and needed a more permanent solution. The rear keel bolt took most of the strain but only half the thread, of the ring bolt, was covered by the too short bolt.

A stainless steel plate and lifting point was fabricated to cover the rear three keel bolts. Although this is an expensive solution, we could never be sure when we might get a pen in the water and so may have to be on hard-stand for a while. This makes a secure lifting point important to be able to access the water easily and rapidly by simple crane rather than travel lift.

To obtain access to the subsequent lifting point we had to cut a hole in the roof of the cabin and through the garage roof as well and these will be subsequently covered by access screw-in ports. With a new three ton ISO lifting strap and two Spectra strops to the back of the boat we get a nice flat lift and crane access will now be easy and safe for yacht and people.